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AKT33 Tamo Ash 13.5oz Rainbow Selvedge Denim Regular Taper

$325.00 USD

EDWIN Japan has returned! First established all the way back in 1947, Tokyo-based EDWIN is without a doubt one of Japan's very first denim-focused companies, founded well before the selvedge denim scene really took off with the Osaka 5 in the 70s and 80s. Tsunemi Yonehachi was one of the very first to begin importing American selvedge denim jeans into Japan, and this is where EDWIN got its start, sparking Japan's intense love for denim. EDWIN was the very first to manufacture denim jeans in Japan in 1961, proof of the innovation, authenticity, and craftsmanship that is EDWIN's ethos. By the 1970's EDWIN had moved into innovating washed denim fabrics, having cemented the brand as an essential denim house, and are responsible for innovating industry-wide norms such as OW, one-washed raw denim, and OW, a washing technique predating stonewashing.

After stepping back from the spotlight for a few years while manufacturing and working with Lee Europe, EDWIN USA and EDWIN MiJ have returned with some wicked brand new fabrics and ideas for the modern selvedge denim market at incredible pricepoints. Welcome back EDWIN!

EDWIN's "Tamo Ash' is a faded run of their 13.5oz Black Rainbow Selvedge Denim, a sulphur-dyed version of the usual 13.5oz Rainbow Selvedge Denim, custom woven by Kaihara Mills. This black denim uses the same blend of long-staple American and Australian cotton fibers, and uses the same vintage looms and traditional weaving method seen in the regular indigo fabric, omitting the deep indigo dye for a black sulphur dye, applied to both the warp and the weft. The warp and weft threads are spun differently for traditional texture, with the warp featuring natural middle-pitched uneven yarns to allow 1940's/50's esque fading on the warp, while the weft incorporates shorter-pitched uneven yarns, twisted tightly for a crunchier weave. 

"Tamo Ash" incorporates the same fading methods that EDWIN uses for their "180 Days" indigo wash, inspired by worn and unwashed pairs of raw denim that are beginning to show some nice fades. These jeans are intended to replicate the look of a pair of unwashed black raw denim, worn for half a year. When raw denim is washed often it takes on a more bit of a more uniform, all-over fade, generally with more texture due to the abrasion from washing. However, when a pair is worn for some time with minimal or no washing, the fades are much higher contrast, which is what EDWIN has gone for here. By combining pre-treating unwashed jeans, minimal washing, and hand-shaving they have achieved what they consider a "truly vintage " pair of faded jeans, with heavy black still remaining in some areas.

  • ATK33 Regular Taper
  • 13.5oz Black Rainbow Selvedge
  • "Tamo Ash" Washed Denim
  • 100% premium long-staple cotton
  • 3x1 twill weave
  • Low-tension weave w/ uneven yarns for vintage 50's texture
  • Double sulphur-dyeing process prior to wash
  • Rainbow Selvedge ID
  • Custom cowhide leather patch
  • EDWIN custom branded rivets and buttons
  • EDWIN "W" pocket arctuates 
  • Hidden fifth-pocket Selvedge ID 
  • Tobacco chainstitch construction

Washed for minimal shrinkage. Cold wash, hang dry.